Many visitors to Flores don’t make it any further inland than the harbour town of Labuan Bajo, the base for exploring Komodo National Park, home of the fearsome dragons. If you’re prepared to venture into the island’s jungle-covered, mountainous interior you will be rewarded with beautiful sites. One of the highlights is Kelimutu Lake.
In central Flores, around two hours inland from the town of Ende, lies the island’s most famous volcano, Kelimutu. It is not the tallest volcano on Flores, that title goes to Mount Inerie. Kelimutu is certainly the strangest and most beautiful, thanks to the multicoloured lakes which sit in its (now-extinct) crater, which have vivid, ever-changing hues of blue, green and red.
The Three Crater Lakes
Kelimutu is famous for the three lakes which sit in its crater, separated by thin ridges of rock. Shifting chemical and mineral balances in the water mean that the colours of the lakes change regularly – throughout 2016 they changed six times – but they are always vivid and deep, with an appearance so thick that it resembles paint. The three lakes are normally turquoise, khaki, and dark red. The turquoise lake tends to stay the same colour, while the other two fluctuate wildly.
The lakes are particularly beautiful at sunrise, which is when the majority of tourists visit. They look beautiful (and different) throughout the day. Those of an intrepid nature can hike up to the summit, although the chilly nights and early start required to get there for sunrise mean that the walk back down is more popular.
Lots of visitors choose to take an ojek or car to the summit, and then walk back down. A cup of delicious Flores coffee from one of the vendors who trudge to the summit each morning is the perfect way to wake up as the sun crests the horizon and illuminates the lakes.
Unsurprisingly, Kelimutu and its lakes occupy a prominent place in local mythology. The lakes are said to harbour the souls of the dead. The young travel to the turquoise lake, the old to the khaki lake and the wicked to the red lake.
Best Time To Visit Kelimutu
The dry season from May to September is the best time to visit Kelimutu. The weather is mostly clear and the sunrises are normally beautiful. If you have the chance I’d recommend going between July and August. This is the high season. You will be sharing the view with a lot of other tourists.
If you plan to visit Kelimutu for sunrise aim to arrive at the peak around 3:30 am. This means leaving your hotel in Moni, the closest village to kelimutu, at around 2:30 am. It’s an early start. You will be waiting at the peak for a while, which is cold, but this way you’re guaranteed to see the whole sunset.
How to Get to Kelimutu
Kelimutu is an absolute must if you’re travelling overland across Flores. While the trip is long, given the distances involved, it is rewarding. A popular route is from Labuan Bajo to Bajawa – a ten-hour bus journey – followed by another bus or car trip to Ende, which takes two hours. Alternatively you can hire a rental car with driver to take you the length of Flores.
From Ende, the village of Moni, at the foot of Kelimutu, is around an hour and a half. Happily, Ende has an airport which flies to destinations including Denpasar, Labuan Bajo and Kupang, meaning you can get to Kelimutu from across Flores and beyond in no time.
From Moni, the drive up to the car park takes around 30 minutes, as does the walk from the car park up to the summit. You can arrange transport through your hotel; to get to the summit for sunrise you will normally depart at around 4am. Wrap up warm – the nights and early mornings are chilly at this altitude.
Moni to kelimutu
Moni is a tiny village at the foot of Kelimutu, a relaxing place with lovely views over rice fields and a pleasantly cool climate after the muggy heat of Ende. The majority of visitors to Kelimutu stay in Moni. It is surprisingly well equipped for tourists for somewhere of its size. Hotels and guesthouses line the single road which runs through the village, and there is a range of cafés and restaurants to choose from.
Where to stay in Moni
Most of Moni’s hotels are friendly, family-run guesthouses on the main road through the village, though the range and quality are increasing all the time. Bintang Lodge, run by the helpful Tobias, is an erstwhile backpacker option which has recently upgraded, with beautiful rooms dotted up the hillside. Bintang Lodge also has hot water showers, which is a real treat on a cold morning.
Those on a budget should head to Antoneri Lodge, which offers no-frills but spotless rooms at great value, while Estevania Lodge is a great mid-range choice. If money is less of an object, head to Kelimutu Ecolodge, a beautiful collection of luxurious bungalows in the east of town and easily the most upmarket option in Moni. Despite the wide choice, many of Moni’s hotels only have a handful of rooms. It’s a good idea to book ahead of time during the peak tourist months of July and August.
Where to eat in Moni
Moni has a few restaurants, most of which serve standard traveller’s fare. The best restaurant is Mopi’s Place, a coffee shop and restaurant. Moni’s has fantastic coffee and delicious breakfast, lunch and dinner (the turmeric chicken is particularly recommended). The furniture is made from reclaimed wood and there’s a rock n’ roll soundtrack most days. It’s easily the trendiest spot in Moni.
Other dining options include a decent restaurant at Bintang Lodge, and Rainbow Café. Be sure to try a Moni cake. It’s a local speciality which consists of potato and vegetables pressed into a patty.
Kelimutu is a must for anyone travelling through Flores. It’s an extraordinary beautiful place even by the high standards of Indonesia’s national parks and natural landscapes. The overland journeys across Flores are long but worth it in themselves. If you don’t feel up to it then you can simply fly to Ende and then drive to Moni.
Have you ever been to Kelimutu? What did you think of the crater lakes? Share your thoughts with other travellers in the comments below.